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Fashion & Film Feature

Power Dressing and Sunglasses After Dark in Taipei Story

A silhouette in white seen from behind. Wide-legged white trousers and a white shoulder-padded blazer. Low white kitten heels clattering on the tiles of an empty apartment overlooking a similar tall building of flats. From behind oversized sunglasses she sizes up the apartment and begins to list the electronic appliances that could fit in a […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

Mickey Rourke in Angel Heart: Dressed to Fit the Monochromatic, Distressed Reality of a 1955 Noir

From the very beginning, Mickey Rourke was one of the four actors Alan Parker had on his list to play Harry Angel in the film Angel Heart (1987). “We arranged to meet in New York. I picked Mickey up from his hotel looking, as he always does off-screen, like an unemployed gas station attendant. We had […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

Identity as an Illusion. Alain Delon in Mr. Klein

Monsieur Klein is an art dealer living on the Left Bank in Paris, on Rue de Bac. Played by Alain Delon, with his good looks, refined clothes, stern haircut and minimal mimic, he looks at ease and undisturbed in his generous apartment, lavishly decorated in rich colours and trimmed with paintings. Dressed in a luxurious […]

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Fashion & Film Feature Interview

The Nest – Interview with costume designer Matthew Price

What remains if people let go of their illusions, or delusions? In one of the best films of last year, Sean Durkin’s The Nest (2020), Jude Law is Rory, a high-risk investment specialist who moves back to his native England from New York with his American wife, Allison (Carrie Coon, in a wonderfully paced performance), and […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

Bonnie Lee and the Leather Jacket Flying Men in Only Angels Have Wings

They are men who are staring down death as they are flying dangerous missions over treacherous mountain terrain, come rain, shine or fog. The short landing strips are no less hazardous. They have poor navigational equipment and makeshift planes, but they are hard-shelled and have an unconquerable spirit. It’s an electrifying, fast-paced, past-the-edge-of-yourself world, one […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

Deceit is in the Details: Barbara Stanwyck in Double Indemnity

“The living room was still stuffy from last night’s cigars. The windows were closed and the sunshine coming in through the Venetian blinds showed up the dust in the air.” The only time when Fred MacMurray’s Walter Neff is shown in broad daylight in Double Indemnity (1944) is when the flashback begins, right before he meets Barbara […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

Ruggedly Masculine – Rod Taylor in The Birds

When Mitch Brenner (Rod Taylor) first meets Melanie Daniels (Tippi Hedren) in the bird shop in San Francisco, his look is impeccably executed. In his charcoal grey suit – fit cut, slim tie and white shirt – he is an urban careerist in San Francisco (a defense lawyer), equally brash and charming, arrogant and worldly. […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

The Armani Aesthetic and Film Costume Appropriation: Sam Shepard in Voyager

Giorgio Armani’s menswear, and womenswear, aesthetic defined and ruled an era, giving birth to a new form of democracy, a new modernity, a new elegance, by going against the grain and proposing diffused lines, a less severe allure to the male figure, and a less constricted allure to the female figure. It was an aesthetic […]

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Fashion & Film Feature

La Dolce Vita Meets New York Jazz and Beat Scene: Jude Law in The Talented Mr. Ripley

It begins with a Princeton jacket and an innocent identity mix-up. Tom Ripley (Matt Damon), a working class young man, wears one when he fills in for a friend who has had an elbow injury and can’t play the piano at a high class party. The party is given by shipping magnate Herbert Greenleaf and […]